Anchor chain weaving

From year to year in the form of heavy chains or light chains with a pendant, neck or wrist, ankle or waist, on bags or shoes, in the form of earrings or brooches, anchor weaving shines on the catwalks of the most prestigious fashion weeks, film festivals, evening parties corporate parties and quiet family celebrations.

Rockers and metallers don't betray him; hip-hop fans are faithful to the end of time. Reputable gentlemen and respectable ladies, for whom status matters, opt precisely on this weaving - from the ancient, though not always aristocratic, pedigree.

In English catalogs, anchor weaving is to be found under the inscription “Cable”, in Italian - “Forzatina”. Interestingly, the inhabitants of the Apennine Peninsula by “Forzatina” understand also a chain with a diamond face. In Russia, when they say "ordinary chain", they certainly mean a product with traditional anchor weaving.

The weave corresponds to its name and looks like a chain on which sailors attach the anchor. In the classic version, the links are of the same size, oval in shape and are connected in series perpendicularly with respect to each other. It is considered one of the strongest.

In ancient times, this invention was a breakthrough in the art of jewelry, because in its pure form gold is not particularly strong, not to mention silver, which means that subtle graceful forms were inaccessible due to guaranteed deformation and fractures. In addition, the novelty made it possible to achieve flowing lines from the metal, ensuring an organic adherence to the bends of the body.

Among the finished products in the windows, there is often the Double Anchor, also known as Italian Bismarck - these are two parallel soldered chains with ordinary anchor weaving. The expansion of the rows is not limited by anything; such chains or bracelets are usually made by machine.

By changing the shape and size of the links, applying various configurations of wire section and decoration, jewelers created a whole family of anchor type. Currently, there are over 70 species.

For example, in the form of links are distinguished:

• Venetian - The links are square or rectangle. Often used in the enhanced version: double, triple, etc.

• Rollo - from round links, which can be of different sizes and torsion. In the literature, you can find other names of this type of chains: French, Bubbling, by the names of manufacturers Belzer or Shapard.

• Garibaldi - It looks like Rollo, but links are forked. Named in honor of the national heroes of the Italian liberation movement, Giuseppe and Anita Garibaldi.

• Giotto (blind) - from the big links of the round form, not less than on the eaves for curtains.

• Anchor Rhombus - has diamond-shaped links.

By way of connection:

• Marine chain - classic elongated anchor links are fastened with a jumper, like a real ship's tackle. In the fleet, this part protects against entanglement, reduces friction between the links. In jewelery, the jumper is valued both for its ability to increase its service life and for its special aesthetics.

• Cord weave - several links are connected through two or three links, because of which a twisted form is obtained.

• Today, fantasy weaving chains and bracelets are popular, where one item contains items of different sizes and configurations. Of the anchor themes, the most famous are Aurora and Hawaiian.

• For the manufacture of chains, in addition to the usual round, jewelers use diamond-shaped, in the form of a polyhedron or triangular metal threads. Titles Anchor Triangular or Triangular Anchor testifies to the shape of the section.To give lightness to volumetric products use hollow tubes. Such a chain looks fine, but more fragile than its full-fledged counterparts and, as a rule, is not amenable to repair.

Anchor weaving looks good in any metal, amber and even plastic, it all depends on the destination, but the precious jewelry is always a special relationship. Therefore, silver, copper and aluminum products owners often covered with gold. They are not suitable for everyday wear, the decorative layer is erased too quickly, but it does not make sense to keep it in a cherished box for a long time: gold on a silver item dims quickly. Copper in a gilded chain in this respect has at least a small, but an advantage.

To improve the performance characteristics of gold, it is mixed with other metals - ligature. By changing the composition and proportions in the alloy itself, manufacturers achieve strength, as well as the most unusual colors and shades.

White gold is obtained with the addition of silver, palladium or platinum. Nickel in the composition of gold white alloys is an ambiguous acquisition, in 8% of people there is a persistent allergy to it.

Yellow gold is a democratic alloy with silver and copper. In different proportions gives different shades. The more copper, the brighter the color of the alloy. The minimum copper content (about 5%) gives yellow gold a slightly greenish tint.

Rose gold is a classic women's theme, also contains silver and copper, but much more copper is used. Such a misalliance, in addition to obtaining an unusual color, has one more plus - it increases the strength, which means the durability of the decoration.

Red gold is a product of the synthesis of gold, copper and zinc. It has many shades. A very ancient alloy recipe, was used even by the Indians of pre-Columbian America.

Black and blue gold is obtained in the process of natural oxidation, after vacuum “roasting” with chromium and cobalt.

Already finished gold wire to obtain the desired color or shade can also be processed. For example, the coating with a thin film of black rhodium makes it possible to get a noble silver shade of different saturation. To imitate antique jewelry products mat.

Products from precious metals must be tested and certified in accordance with international standards.

It should be clarified that the process of creating a chain among professionals is called viscous. Knit in three ways: machine, manual and by stamping. There is one technological task - to cut elements of the same length, to give them shape and to fasten to each other.

Durable, high-quality and elegant - products made personally by the jeweler. But there are limitations on the thickness of metal threads with which a specialist can work, and a lot of time is spent on fulfilling an order. The top of the hand-knit is the product of the workshop Centaurus: with a chain length of 50 cm, its weight is only 4.12 grams, although usually similar manual works begin, at best, only from 7 grams.

Each method has its pros and cons. Machine binding allows the smallest thickness of the links - from 0.2 mm. When stamping - already from 0.35 mm, but soldering is not required, costs are reduced, which affects prices, and the chain itself becomes stronger.

Many jewelry models require additional processing. According to the method of the final mechanical finishing chains are:

• hewn - links or the finished product is subjected to deformation to give a new shape. One example is the Moscow bit, made up of curved classic anchor links with an additional jumper for fastening at the bend.

• diamond cut - notches are applied to the jewelry, one or several new faces are created along the entire length of the product. The resulting surface becomes a mirror and, under the rays of light, radiates radiance, sparkles like a precious stone.In anchor weaving, the diamond face is used quite rarely.

A well-made anchor chain, even with active use, can be guaranteed to last for at least 15 years; with proper care, it can be passed on by inheritance.

In order for the anchor chain not to lose its luster, it is not necessary to scrub it like sailors. For this there are special soft pastes or solutions.

Even with the most careful care, the chains age and become unusable, after which the precipices begin. They almost halve the life of their suspension, which for years literally saw several carrying links. The same degree of load on the areas of the fastener.

Signs of chain wear:

• Elongation - starts at 50% wear. The half-meter thread can lengthen by 6 cm.

• Grading - well detected, if you wind the chain on a finger or with a little tension. The worn out areas enter each other and form steps, which only under external influence return to their places.

• By removing the used parts, you can only temporarily extend the life of the jewelry for half a year or a year. After the 3rd gap repair work does not make sense.

So you shouldn’t wither over gold, but it’s time to bind yourself. Ladies wear from the thinnest to the giant anchor around the neck, like those of Louis Vitton and Marc Jacobs. Fantasy, elegant and rough with large pendants and pendants, like those of Chloé, Christopher Kane, Alexander Wang and Hermès. A large anchor chain in the style of a football bully is also relevant for men, both in 2017 and in the next season. In Milan, Ermenegildo Zegna, MSGM, Versace, Ports 1961 and Dsquared2 voted for this decision.